Beograd is known for its splavs - houseboats on the Danube where you can eat or party or... As our first day in the city grew dark it began to rain heavily, but we refused to let that stop us so we dressed up and hailed a taxi that took us to the other side. We expected well-lit houseboats, people walking along the river and laughing and people talking. Instead we ended up on some dark, muddy path and some bushes before finding the only little wooden splav that was open.
We were the only guests there, and the place was very neat and local. They played Serbian versions of western pop songs, and we sat down in the little veranda overlooking a very dark river.
We were a little cold and asked for some blankets. Instead, the young waiter - who had no teeth in his mouth - brought us the staff's coats, so I had this vest, and AnCa got a cool denim jacket.
The food was seriously good. We had a basic salad and kiflice - Serbian cheese rolls.
And then we had fresh fish from the river. A little too salty, but very nice with a spinach-potato-stew on the side and Serbian
pivo.
Later, we met the two Danish girls from our hostel on a very kitschy nightclub splav. The only one open (it was a Tuesday) was called Freestyler and only played 90s music. Everyone was very glammed up and you had to be on the guestlist to be practically anywhere in the little boat. But we had a blast dancing our fannies off to 'Macarena', 'What Is Love' and Serbian versions of Ace of Base...
They also had stripdancers... (Not these two, though)
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